
Lots of Florida homeowners are thinking about opening the pool right about now. And, why not? The average temperature is getting up in the 80s now and that’s plenty warm enough to consider taking a dip. Every adult may not agree with that, but if you asked the kids if they’d jump in though—
Before they rip off the cover and go for it, there are some steps you need to take to ensure the water is clean and safe.
Warmer temps promote algae growth
Once the temperature is consistently in the upper 60’s to 70 degrees, you don’t want to wait to long to get under the cover. Algae grows faster when the water warms up and if you put it off too long, you’re going to have to deal with a murky, green mess.
That’s going to slow down the process because it may take a few days to turn the water clear again. After the chemical treating… and retreating… and…
Before you take off the cover
If you don’t have a pool enclosure, your winter cover likely has scattered debris or standing water on top of it. We suggest cleaning it off before unveiling the pool. We suggest using a pump to drain off the water and “raking” off accumulated debris first. If you don’t have an automated system to cover and uncover the pool, we suggest making it a two man job. Mainly because pool covers are heavy!
Odds are there will still be a small amount of water to deal with too, however, even if it winds up in the pool, it shouldn’t be enough to cause serious issues. The following steps should take care of it nicely.
Properly store winter accessories
Take the time to properly store your winter cover and other accessories to avoid any damage during the summer. There’s no reason you can’t reuse them year after year and you know what they say about a penny saved! The old saying seems especially apropos these days, doesn’t it?
Remove the cover and lay it out flat. Brush off any remaining water and debris. Allow the cover to dry thoroughly. Before folding it for storage, sprinkle talcum powder over it to prevent mold and mildew growth. Dark, damp spaces provide prime conditions for the fungi spores to thrive. Especially, when coupled with Florida’s soaring humidity levels.
Carefully fold the cover to prevent damage or rips before storing it in a cool, dry place, such as the garage or storage shed.
Reconnect and maintain
If you disconnected your pool filter, pump, heater, automatic pool cleaner, in-line chlorinators, or any other pool equipment for the winter, it’s time to reconnect everything. Don’t forget to reinstall the drain plugs removed from the equipment.
It’s also a good time to take some time to lubricate the o-rings, gaskets, and other hardware with a silicone lubricant. It helps keep your equipment watertight making it more likely to work properly all season long. Then, after it flies by—as summer is wont to do—it’s easier to disassemble again to get winterized.
Once everything is in place, if the water level is below the skimmer, it’s time to refill the pool.
It’s time to add the chemicals
Start your pump to get the water circulating and then you’re ready to start adding the chemicals to your water. Pull out the water balancers, stain and scale preventer, algaecide, clarifier, and pool shock.
Address metal build-up first because during the off-season, copper, iron, aluminum, and other metals can accumulate in your pool water. Metals in the pool don’t cause a concern for swimmers, even at high levels, it’s all about the aesthetics. Metals and minerals can make the water cloudy or stain underwater surfaces. Moreover, if not addressed, changes in pH or high chlorine levels—such as during shock treatments—encourages metal staining too.
Finding the proper balance
Home test kits or strips are the fastest and easiest way to check the levels in your pool. Always test the water chemistry before adding any chemicals. Focus on balancing the Total Alkalinity first because it has a direct impact on the pH levels. Once it’s in range, test the pH because it’s likely to change while adjusting the Total Alkalinity. Once the pH is leveled out, you can work on adjusting the other chemistry levels.
You’ll need to check the levels of Free Available Chlorine, Calcium Hardness, and Stabilizer, otherwise known as Cyanuric Acid.
The recommended water balance ranges are as follows:
- Total Alkalinity (TA): 80–120 ppm
- pH: 7.4–7.6
- Free Available Chlorine (FAC): 2.0–4.0 ppm
- Calcium Hardness (CH): 200–400 ppm
- Cyanuric Acid (CYA): 30–100 ppm
Always read and carefully follow product instructions when adding chemicals to your pool. Keep the pump running at high speed until the chemical is fully integrated which often takes up to four hours or longer after adding it to the water. Never mix chemicals and add them to the water only one at a time.
Brush and vacuum
Plan to give the pool a thorough brushing and vacuuming before shocking the pool. Even if you don’t see it, there’s likely bacteria and algae clinging to the pool walls. Moreover, the process is going to help your filtration system remove all bits of debris. When that stuff is out of the water, your chlorine works most efficiently.
Start brushing at the shallow end of your pool and work your way toward the deep end. Vacuuming your pool directly to “waste” reduces strain on your filter. Once the pool is brushed and vacuumed, let the filtration system run through the night and you’re ready for the next step.
Shock and awesome
The last step for ridding the water of bacteria, algae spores, and, well, germs in general, is to shock the pool. Shocking the pool hits it with a mega burst of chlorine to wipe them out completely. Once that process is completed and you’ve allowed it to circulate through the system, treat the water with algaecide the following day. Once that’s said and done, your set for an awesome swim season.
Enjoy it!